POLENTA, AS PROMISED
This is the recipe with which Killer cut loose in the kitchen on Friday. It’s from a library copy of the Recipes 1, 2, 3 Menu Cookbook, the second of the three-ingredient recipe books by Rozanne Gold. Like the minimalist coconut soup contest that I’m sure you all remember as though it was yesterday, the point of the book is to extract a maximum of flavour from a minimum of ingredients. In addition to being significantly less taxing to your grocer, three-ingredient recipes really make you focus with an incisive, zen-like clarity on the food at hand. Note to Little, Brown and Ms. Gold: Mango Pudding Blues would love nothing more than to be very publicly Napsterized for its P2P sharing of this recipe. Please prosecute us at once!
Polenta “Lasagne” with Smoked Mozzarella
12 ounces smoked mozzarella cheese
Two cups bitchin’ stone-ground yellow cornmeal.
One big can of Tomatoes. Uh, 28 fl. oz.
Cut a third of the cheese into small pieces. Cut remainder into slices. Note that the Killer bought half smoked mozza, half smoked Jarlsberg by accident, but the thing was still stunning. Maybe it was even better, you know?
In a large, heavy saucepan, bring seven cups of water to boil. Add two teaspoons salt, 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper and cornmeal in a slow, steady stream. Stir jauntily with a wooden spoon until smooth. Break up lumps with back of spoon. Lower heat to medium.
Stir constantly until polenta begins to pull away from the sides of the pan. After 20 minutes, add the small pieces of cheese and stir until melted. Continue stirring for another 15 minutes, until polenta is very thick.
Spray an 11-by-14-inch baking pan with non-stick vegetable spray. Pour hot polenta into pan to make an even layer. Let cool at least two hours at room temperature. Polenta will harden.
Preheat broiler. Cut polenta, in pan, into 12 squares. Put under broiler for three minutes, or until tops are lightly browned and crisp. This took the Killer more than three minutes. Get impatient. Stamp your feet. Remove from broiler.
Preheat oven to 350?.
Meanwhile, puree tomatoes with their liquid in a food processor until fairly smooth. Ask yourself why she’s recommended pureeing whole tomatoes when she coulda just said buy a can of goddam pureed tomatoes in the first place. Shrug and put in a small heavy saucepan with lots of freshly ground black pepper. If you think pre-ground pepper will do, kindly close this window and then edit the URL of Mango Pudding Blues from your bookmarks, using the “edit favorites” command in the pull-down menu, and then never come back here again. Ever. The rest of you, bring the tomatoes to a boil, lower heat and simmer five minutes. Set aside.
To assemble, put six pieces of polenta, touching, side by side in a 10-by10-inch or 9-by-11-inch casserole. Spoon on half of the tomato sauce to cover. Cover tomato sauce with half the cheese. Top with another layer or polenta, sauce and cheese. Bake for ten to 15 minutes. Serve.
So there. Killer also made the side dish of blast-baked beans (Yes! Very hot and very fast, to sear in the flavours and blast out the moisture.) and niçoise olives, the appetizer of eggplant with roasted garlic and sundried tomatoes and the coffee/Frangelico granita dessert. It was a symphony.
Yes, a symphony. See, the prevailing mythology in the household has it that Killer is perhaps not quite the genius cook that Mango Pudding Blues is, but allow us to debunk that right now. Sure, MPB has a way with turning whatever the fridge contains into a credible omelette on Sunday mornings; yes, MPB can throw together a delightful pasta dish in moments with forgotten back-of-the-pantry ingredients; yes, MPB can stroll through the market and invent an astonishing dinner based on what’s looking good that day. Mango Pudding Blues is pure jazz in the kitchen. But Killer! Killer is classical. Killer is Pinchas Zucherman in the kitchen, boys and girls. Sure, she prefers someone else to write the score. But her performance delivers the goods.
Now, here’s the other thing. A bag of cornmeal costs about two bucks. A can of tomatoes? $1.29. The cheese, okay. Not cheap. It was from La Maison du Fromage, our favorite store in Ottawa. It was $8. Do you see where I’m going with this? You can live like a king for nothing. Nothing!
Let me spell this out for you: Cost, in Canadian dollars, of Big Macs, large fries, apple pies and large cokes for two, plus a six-pack of Michelob: $24.32.
Cost, in Canadian dollars, of the smoked mozzeralla polenta lasagne that Killer whipped up, including wine: $18.71.
The book recommends a Parallele 45 Côtes du Rhône, which we drank (like, $11.45 or so*. Very reasonable), but I would also recommend a dirt-cheap Portuguese, the Sogrape 99 Douro “Mateus Signature”**, which retails usually here for $7.90, but was on sale at our store for $6.90. Or, and don’t get me started on this, try a bottle of Citra or Rocca Vendosa, delightful but horrifyingly cheap reds from the Montepulciano D’abruzzo region of Italy. Here, they’re $6.50 a bottle. Do you see? You are rolling in luxury for less than 20 bucks. You can do this.
*Prices are LCBO-specific. Higher in Quebec, lower in good ol’ Alberta.
**Special thanks to Billy Munnely for the wine recommendations. Mr. Munnely will soon get his due here, we assure you.
* * *
HAMISH
We have wronged a brother. Hamish can be read here, regardless of where we said he was earlier. Canadians who felt the earth move recently should note that he’s here, in the country, right now, briefly beating certain permissions out of the government before returning to Japan. We hear he ate with C last night. We adore him.